A little over a month ago I went on a 4-day hike at 12,000 feet through the Andes to Machu Picchu. I have at last de-traumatized myself enough to talk about it. It took a month. A month of ice-cream and good TV and novel brainstorming and whole days where I didn’t leave the apartment. A month of hedonism. Look at this. Hell.

I can talk about it now, but I can’t talk about it well. Even the thought of it is exhausting so it’s difficult to be eloquent. Me. Hike. Tired. Keep Going. I have memories, things that I thought about the most, feelings that prevailed. I was often annoyed to be hiking alone and in the back. We were in a 16-person group and I went with 2 friends and this was not how I envisioned the hike going, me alone in the back. Had I envisioned it this way I probably would have done better emotionally — funny how expectations help us that way. Sure, I could have been mature and immediately cast aside my expectation and adjusted to the change, but everything else was changed too and I just wanted something normal and this was an easy thing to affix on. My adorable expectation. Awwwww look. It’s dead. Something else I thought about a lot was how fast the hike was going by. This could have been my exhaustion. I was too tired to really notice anything but how much oxygen I wasn’t getting and how many hours of suffering lay between me and catching my breath. Several times I looked up and said, “Wow, this is really pretty. Wow, I should be taking pictures of this.” What I was halfway saying when I said this was, Is everyone insane or can we just take a break already?

There was a spirit of competition on the hike which I admit to being swept up into, mostly because they were being competitive not because I wanted to be competitive. There are things I want to be competitive about and hiking is not one of them. Competitive people, however, is one of the things I want to be competitive about. I sucked at going uphill. I did not have the cardiovascular strength for it, coming from a family of wimps socialites as I do. We excel at restaurants and movies. We don’t do outdoors, darling. I was much better at going downhill. The good Lord atoned for his slip-up with my lungs by giving me hand-eye coordination. I would run downhill, skipping over stones with hare-like precision, never knowing where my next step would fall but not caring because there was no way I could stop if I did. After hours of being alone in the back this was crack cocaine.
It helped that I had trail running shoes and not clunky hiking boots. My friend bought me them. I would not have known to buy them myself. She is either very smart or she was sent by angels.
There were things that happened that I don’t feel like writing about in length.
- A small brush fire
- A puppy peeing on my backpack
- Strangers on the trail, always in pairs, encouraging me to keep climbing
- Getting half as long a break as everyone else
- My body becoming too tired to digest any food of substance
- Vomiting trail side
- Falling off a 12-foot ledge and bruising my thigh
- Waking up at 3am and stargazing for 45 minutes
- Leaving the trail to sob in the bushes for a while
- The assistant tour guide offering to hold my backpack in Machu Picchu because I was having enough difficulty carrying just my clothes and probably looked like the soulless shell of a person
- Letting him
What matters is, I guess, that we made it.



About that fall off a ledge. My hip is still sore all down the side. I’m remembering those books where people get battle wounds which “never really heal” and that’s probably what I’m working with here. My coworker has a deep-tissue bruise from a car wreck years ago that is still a tender knot. Not that I’m complaining. I’m on the slow descent to death and the mileage is bound to show. About complaining… Here’s a big thing I learned on the trail. Everyone processes differently. On day 2 my friend and I were discussing our fellow hikers. Which ones we liked and what we liked about them, which ones had personalities that were more difficult to adjust to. She said, “I don’t like hiking around Mildred though. She’s kind of a negative person.” “Who is Mildred?” “The one who complains all the time.” A face immediately came to mind. Mildred. Those rare times when I was in the front of the group, I had encountered her myself. The difference is, rather than a negative presence she shone as a bright pebble in my memory, one of the nicer, more accessible people in the group. I was baffled my friend who got along so smoothly with me would not enjoy the one person who, on day 2, I felt like getting to know better. I tried to defend her a bit, not because I’m one of those people who believes we should only say nice things about each other — I’m not — but because I had been complaining the whole time. It’s just that, you know, no one was ever hiking with me to hear it. I thought about why I liked this girl. It’s true that our verbal interaction had mostly revolved around complaining. Could it be that I was a negative person and so naturally felt comfortable around negative people? Was I subconsciously resistant to improving myself? I asked myself this quietly and honestly and for a long time. I had a lot of time to think since I was, you know… This is what I decided. What I “learned.” If you are constantly finding something to complain about over a period of weeks in a wide variety of situations, you might have a problem. But, like everything else, in moderation complaining is not innately wrong. A tone of voice is not innately wrong and neither are words, so why should they become immoral in combination? Would not the morality be dictated by the situation? By the feeling such words and tones evoke in the listener and speaker? The fact stands that complaining is positive to me, in moderation. By voicing my problems, my problems seem smaller, more manageable. If they can be contained in a few sentences how horrible and earth-shattering can they be? And if someone understands my problems — what the problems are, why they are problems — they might be able to give me advice on how to beat those problems. Even if they have no advice, the fact that they’ve experienced similar problems or know people who’ve experienced similar problems would serve as a testament to me that I won’t die. I’m not the first; I won’t be the last. Let’s take an example. A very difficult hike. From my viewpoint it is helpful to discuss how difficult the hike is and all the ways in which it is difficult. This legitimizes my struggle — I’m not crazy; I’m not a wimp; I’m having problems for a reason. A good reason. Encountering someone else complaining on the trail would be a beacon of hope. Finally, someone who sees this situation the same way I do! Yes! Rally! Let us conquer this mutually-agreed-upon very difficult thing! Perhaps we can laugh about how absurdly hard it is! But this is not how everyone deals with problems. Some people deal with problems by telling themselves that there is no problem. If there is no problem, or if the problem is not very large, then there is no reason in the world why they should not be able to do it. So they go about doing it. They focus on the moments of fun or how awesome they’ll feel in a few days when they can say “I did it.” They enlarge these moments in their mind. Encountering someone who keeps reminding them of the difficulties they are having is an affront to their reality, is damaging, is negative. And when I encountered anyone on the trail who ignored my observations on how much difficulty I was having, I felt like I’d been told off for being a wimp, or worse, boring. I started seeing that person as a snob, as an affront to community, as negative. Our language comes up short here. There is a lifestyle of complaining and then there is situational complaining used as a coping mechanism which is no better or worse than situational delusion and distraction. You wouldn’t call a dieter who is focusing on the cheesecake he will be having after a week of commitment delusional and distracted, would you? This realization led to another. “Just think of how good you’ll feel when you’re done!” I have heard it a hundred times and have never found it motivating and have always wondered why people keep saying it.
Charity
I totally get this. I know we've talked about this before - I have had to coach people I love (read: my mom) into how to first legitimize my struggle, then offer me bubbly, dismissive optimism. Otherwise, I just ended up getting even more agitated/negative by trying to convince her of THE PROBLEM, while she just as urgently tried to make me dismiss it. It always ended in tears and stilted silence. I think some people can empathize with others in the moment whereas other people have a broader perspective, mixing up a momentary reaction to a circumstance with a lifestyle. Did that come out right? Like, when I had a less-than-thrilling dating experience on eHarmony, my friend understood that my "Why do I do this to myself? Maybe I should just stop!" emoting was just me saying, "Tell me you understand and have a similar experience to make me feel like I'm normal and will come out alright." My mom, on the other hand, took my words at face value and cautioned me against being overly dramatic in my decisions, and that there are other guys, blah blah blah. After a bad phone call, she emailed: "I guess this is where I should say 'I know it sucks to be where you are', right? I forgot that part tonight so let me say I'm sorry I upset you. I didn't mean to do that. What I really wanted to do was hold you and let you cry, but my arms aren't that long. So, let me say this ~ I love you with all my heart, I wish I could be there with you. Get some sleep tonight and it will help. Love, Mom" She's learning ;) But I also try to remember that as my mom, she feels like she can't afford to let me vent, because she worries about the bigger picture of my life and takes what I say seriously. Friends don't have that same level of responsibility. Sorry, super over-sharing there. :P
Jaimie
OMG OVERSHARING. Nah, I don't think that was oversharing at all. I love long comments. And you're right, we did talk about this on the phone. I forgot. I guess I was aware of this before the hike, but something about the hike solidified it.
Charity
Like how life experiences solidify cliches. OMG WHY IS THIS SITUATION NOT A CLEVER CLICHE? Surely others go through this.
Michelle A.
Oh, wow, I had no idea you traveled there and made that trip! (If I did, I forget ...) That's truly incredible, and I'm happy that you've talked about it here. I'm just like you, though, in that I need complaining (and people to complain to and with) in order to cope with life's hard trails. If it weren't for those people, I'd probably curl up in a ball and die of loneliness and feeling like nobody, not one person anywhere, understands or cares. That's just how I am. I am not an island, and I do need other people to help me along -- often, that just means someone to complain to and who won't judge me for it. The people who do -- our "friendships" never last long at all and I end up resenting them and resenting the fact that I resent them. Ugh. It's true that we all process things differently. I think the good thing is that I've gotten better at reading people and figuring out who I'll click well with before heading into a dead-end relationship.
Jaimie
I didn't really talk about it much! I don't think I told you. You're good. :) I love this thoughtful comment!
Holli
Hi Jaimie, Found your blog on Michelle's site and love it! Thanks for commenting on my guest post. First of all, I have always wanted to do this hike and love that you wrote about it, and that you wrote about it so honestly. It may sound dumb to say so, but I never realized it is as tough a climb as it obviously is. That is something they definitely gloss over in the tourist brochures. My question is, if you could do it again with what you know now, would you? Or was it not worth it? I get what you mean about complaining, too. I've always had friends that I could have vent or rant sessions with--usually people who are in the same difficult situation as me. But it's so easy to inadvertently offend other women (I say women because I've never offended a guy) and have them assume you're negative, etc., when really you're just trying to commiserate and find common ground. The worst is the polly anna type who whitewashes everything and tries to find the positive in all situations, even the ones that really suck. Sometimes you just need to say "this sucks". It sounds like what was supposed to be an awesome adventure with friends ended up being quite lonely and isolating at times. And yep, that would definitely suck!
Jaimie
They might be talking about the 1-day hike in the tourist stuff. Well, all tourist stuff glosses over all the hikes, I'd say. So you're right. They said this hike was "moderately difficult." I think it would have been had everyone had a slightly slower pace. The pace was so freaking fast. I can't remember if I said this in the post, but a 1-day hike before MP where you just see the sunrise would be 100% worth it. Would I do it all over again? No. I'd see Machu Picchu again, and I'd do the 1-day hike, but otherwise... taking a bus doesn't sound so terrible. That's not the same thing as "I wish it had never happened" though. It was good, as a writer, to have had that experience. (If I weren't a writer, I probably would be saying "I wish it had never happened," ha.) Thanks for stopping in!
Kacie
Oh girl, I grinned through this entire post. Mostly because in many ways I'm so like you! I am not a hiker. I am a fairly healthy person, but I'm not a runner, not naturally always outside and in shape. And so during hikes I am always at the back and I SUCK at uphill. I run downhill too. Lots of people say it's terribly painful on their knees, but it is SO refreshing next to the plodding, "Oh god I can put one foot in front of the other but I'm not sure I can survive even 10 minutes after that." And also, on the complaining thing, I got a lot of crap from people about that this summer. I'm analytical and honest and realistic. TRULY not usually negative. But, honest analysis of the things I don't like FEELS to some people like negativity, and they avoid it. That's really hard for me to digest, it's like being told to just turn off honesty. Anyways. You go girl. I'm super impressed by your hiking experience.
Jaimie
Hey, it's been a long time! You're about to have another kid! Dang! I went to your blog and saw the recent(ish) post about that guy saying, "Wow, you're very negative." Holy crap, in what world is that at all okay to say to someone off-the-cuff like that? --> Wow, you're very rude. Or inconsiderate, or blunt, or whatever word. It was such a nice surprise to see your name pop up as a comment today! :) ^^^said in a way which in no way implies anyone should ever be commenting here